Cover-Stitch 101

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I am compelled to write this post to answer questions from readers about cover-stitches - a well-known seams used for the finishing of a "tudung"  (head-cover with ready awning) made from lycra or jersey fabric.


(photo: cover-stitches on t-shirt)

Cover-stitch is also known as "tshirt-seams" or double-stitch, as how some Malaysians  have renamed it. It came to my understanding, that the name originates from the overlock loop-stitching which "covers" and prevents fabric from fraying, and not the "double and parallel" stitches of the other side of view.

I remember, cover-stitch was made known to public when wearing "tudung awning" was once became popular, and that both jersey and lycra fabrics would require cover-stitching for the raw edge finishing. While many have not aware that, cover-stitch have longed been used for seaming our daily garments such as t-shirts, skirts and pants.

Cover-stitch consists of 2 rows of parallel stitches on one side, while lopping and overlocks both threads from the other. It overlocks the edge of raw fabric from inside, to prevent it from fraying.

2 straight stitches on top view.

A cover-stitch machine came with 2 needles and use 3 or 4 spools of threads - a pair to form the pair of straight stitching of the outer side, and the rest to form overlock-looping from the inside.




overlock stitches on the inside

Many would wonder if a combination of one-needle straight sewing machine and an overlock would result the same. Take a piece of a jersey fabric and form 2 parallel straight stitches on a side, and you will understand the struggle and why it is not possible. I knew it, because I have tried it, once ;)

So how does cover-stitch differs from an overlock machine? Overlock machine has built-in knife function that helps raw edge trimming during stitching, while cover-stitch machine doesn't have any. If such trimming is required, it has to be done manually with a scissor. Normal overlock stitching are  done on an edge of a fabric while overlocks of the cover-stitch machine can be formed anywhere on a fabric. The edge of a raw fabric (to be overlocked) need to be folded if using the cover-stitch.

manual trimming using scissor

overlock stitches (top) and parallel straight stitch (bottom) of a tudung

It is a lot convenient to form overlock stitches using the industrial cover-stitch machine as compared to the portable, especially for the finishing of a tudung, which are designed to have with "round" and "corners" edges. I would normally use pins after each folds, or sometimes perform temporary hand-stitches prior to finishing it using the cover-stitch machine.

my "babylock" cover-stitch portable

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What I just learned about satin

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Do you know there are are different types of satin fabrics in the market, with pricing as low as RM5/metre to as high as RM20/a metre?

Do you understand satin well?


(photo: beautiful and shining - some of my satin collections)

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Basic Ribbon Embroidery

Back to Malay version,click here

Folded Rose is fundamental in ribbon embroidery. As name given, it takes a lot of folding process and of course, practices in order to make one. It can be beautiful on its own or can be combined with other ribbon embroidering techniques, to form various roses designs of larger sizes.

The length of ribbon required to form a folded rose depends on the size of ribbon used. The general rule - the larger the size, the longer is needed to form a folded rose. For example, our normal practice would require a length of 30" for a ribbon size on 1". However, it is possible to have different formula by individual experience and practices.

"Folded Roses" - need lots of practice

This is my first cushion cover after attending the basic ribbon embroidery class; all use the satin.

My first cushion cover

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Latchhook - Part 2 - The Basic

Back to Malay version, click here

So I returned home, with a new sewing kit, an "alien" which I knew nothing about.

The fundamental for the project

1.canvas with ready patern.

2.latchhook

3. precut yarns

..and so the process begins

stitching

During the early hours of the process, I was initially drowsed to boredom. Not too sure why, perhaps the best explanation will be the difference level of complexity of the making compared to the stitching with ribbons. Soon, I slowly experienced a magical feeling in me - a true relaxation and peaceful way of stitching while day dreaming. As this got closer to end, I was bold to admit - this is a fine stitching experience.

And finally this is done!

a pair of loving birds on cloud 9

Continue to crochet-ing, I stitched along the sidelines and all corners

a crochet needle and 25g Acrylic yarns, .

Perfectly done

..with crochet borders.

 Now do the trimming,

can be done while day-dreaming..and i m loving it!

To be continued ;)

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